Sabai

This post is pretty late, but I had quite the adventure a while back that I thought I should write about. After only a couple of weeks of school, we had an entire week off of classes because of some "University Games". So there were some big groups of students planning trips to Malaysia, or to get scuba licenses, or Chiang Mai, or Vietnam. But I didn't want to travel with that many people which is why my friend Kelly and I decided to do our own thing. And I couldn't be happier that we did. We spent a few hours the week before looking up where we wanted to go and general ideas of what we wanted to do. But on Friday afternoon we hopped in a cab with no tickets, no reservations, no nothin' except our packs and a guide book.

A bus took us 12 hours to a town on a bay on the West coast of Southern Thailand, called Phang Nga. It was an overnight bus (thank god for Tylenol PM) so we arrived before sunrise, around 5:30 am. If you have ever seen the James Bond movie "The Man with the Golden Gun", parts of it were filled in this bay. There is an island-- now dubbed James Bond Island-- with a huge, iconic rock pillar thing jutting up from the sea and looking like it could topple any day. Anyways, it is quite the tourist attraction and Kelly had her heart set on seeing it. The only real way to do that is to take a tour of the bay from one of the many small companies operating out of town. We were convinced into taking an overnight tour, which cost us a whopping $30 including all accommodation and 3 meals. So a few hours later, we set out in a small longtail boat, with a Swiss couple and a local guide. The bay is GORGEOUS. The landscape is all limestone, which, because of the way it weathers, has created unbelievable islands of towers and cliffs that dramatically occupy the waters. It has also formed some incredible caves both on land and underwater. So we spent a few hours boating around, seeing the mangrove forest, floating through rock passageways, and taking in the scenery. We also stopped on a couple different islands to walk through a cave or to have lunch on the beach or to step foot on James Bond Island. It is a very small island, but manages to host a few rows of stalls selling souvenirs to tourists. Then, Kelly and I were dropped off at the Muslim village that is located in the middle of the bay. How, you ask? It is built on stilts. I'm not exactly sure why they decided to locate there, but they did. They depend on fishing for their livelihood but have also begun catering to the tourists who come through there. So we explored a bit, ate a delicious dinner, and then spent the night in a room with nothing but a mattress on the wooden floor a few feet above the water.

The next morning after breakfast, our guide came back to pick us up and take us back to the mainland. Our plans for that day were to get to the National Park just outside of town in order to do some hiking. There is only one 2km long trail there, but it is well marked and has some cool stuff to see along the way. Before the actual trail even starts, there is a series of waterfalls separated by a couple of big natural pools. They were quite crowded with local Thais, fully clothed, swimming and playing around and having picnics. Once the trail started, though, the only other people we ran into were a middle-aged white couple. It was a really nice little hike, traveling right next to either the river or a limestone cliff the entire way. Several times, we were expected to cross the river on what the Thais might call a 'bridge' but were really just a log or two that bowed and wobbled as you balance-beamed your way across. There were several caves along the trail that you could walk a little ways into. We saw a bunch of really cool butterflies, a crazy lizard, and alot of truly HUGE trees. And on our way back, we did as the Thais do and went for a swim in the pools-- fully clothed despite the bathing suits we were wearing underneath. That night we got a room in town, clean with our own bathroom, for a grand total of $5.

The next morning, we headed off to our next destination, which required an hour and a half bus ride on a local bus to some other town. The bus played Thai Karaoke music videos the whole time. We then had to get on another bus for about an hour to our final destination--Khao Sok. It is a National Park Northeast of Phang Nga, on the inland of the Southern Thailand peninsula. The small town outside of the entrance to the National Park comprises of one road featuring bungalows, restaurants, tour services, and mini-marts, and one side road with more accommodations. So sure, the place caters to the visiting tourists, but there is no 7 Eleven in sight and the focus is still very much on the National Park. After looking around for a bit, we found a nice, cheap bungalow at this relaxed, locally run joint. From there, we booked a 2 day 1 night tour of the lake inside the park (again, you need a tour to get there). Then we wasted away the evening at a spot along the river where you can watch a huge pack of monkeys swim and climb and swing and run and play for hours on end. And then the next morning we headed out with two middle-aged German guys, a middle-aged German couple, a Canadian family with two young girls, and our local guide, Ja, who also runs the bar at our bungalows.

The lake is incredible. Its landscape is very similar to that of the bay, but it is less wide open and with more channels and inlets and islands. So you can't always see far out into the lake before a cliff blocks your view. But there is this underlying sense, as you travel farther and farther on the boat, that this lake is HUGE. Eventually, we made it to the National Park's floating bungalows and restaurant. These bamboo structures, connected by precarious bamboo walkways, actually are floating atop the water. Through the one inch gaps in our floor boards, we could watch fish swimming beneath our feet. While waiting for lunch, we had a relaxing swim and a good time jumping off of the bamboo diving platform. And after lunch, we went for a hike. The forest (jungle) down there is very different from the stuff I was used to hiking through in Northern Thailand, so I was grateful to get a close look at the differences. We walked for a little under two hours before coming to the entrance of a cave. Wow. We spent an hour walking through it before coming out at the other end. The thing was GIANT. In the 70's, it was used as a communist bunker, and there are even some craters in the area left from bombs aimed at them. We ran into some crazy wildlife inside the cave including a couple of big frogs, a couple of enormous spiders, an area coated in hundreds of small spiders, and the--bats! There were a couple of sections of the cave where the ceiling was just littered with dangling black bodies. It was pretty incredible to see. But perhaps the coolest part of the cave was the river that runs through it, even on the dry season. We walked next to it mot of the way, but then came to a point where the only way forward was to swim. So there we were, swimming down the small river deep inside a dark cave. We then made our way back to the bungalows and enjoyed an extra delicious dinner consisting of fried fish, garlic stir-fried veggies and pork, Thai omelet, and yellow curry with chicken and sweet potatoes. That night, under the light of the full moon, as well as before breakfast the next morning, we all got on the boat and cruised around the lake looking for animals. We saw a couple of hornbills and a couple of different kinds of monkeys. The German guys, Kelly, and I spent the evening hanging out with Ja, who told us a lot about the jungle including some pretty crazy stories about his uncle's encounter with a Tiger and his friend's with a wild elephant. So yes, they do exist.

The next morning, we left the floating bungalows but did another hike and had another swim in the lake again before heading back to town. Then that evening, we agreed to meet up with the two groups of German people. Well, turns out one of the German men (married with children and a school teacher) had quite the crush on Kelly. So we promptly left that crowd and spent the rest of the night with Ja and some of his friends at his bar. He is only a year or two older than us and so we all had a great time hanging out. Lucky for us because for the next 2 and a half days, we had our own personal guides to show us the real Khao Sok. One day, we went for a long hike in the jungle, to a nice secluded waterfall. Along the way, we saw more monkeys, tons of lizards including one over 4ft long, and four snakes. At the end of the hike, Ja made us noodle soup and coffee using only a fire and bamboo. Another day he and a friend, Beer, took us swimming in the river, then to visit the local temple, then to watch them and other locals play a traditional Thai sport (Takraw, a sort of cross between hackey sack and volleyball). And the morning before we left, they took us to the river where in an hours time Ja had speared around 15 small fish. So at that point, about the last thing Kelly and I wanted to do was go back to school in the big city. Life down there is incredible, and it actually reminded me alot of the Karen villages up north. The town may not have much money, but that is of less concern to people who live genuinely relaxed, content, beautiful, and happy lives.

So anyways, it was a fabulous week. I really was enjoying discovering Bangkok, but getting out of there was a surprising breath of fresh air. About two weekends ago I took a little overnight trip to see some swimming monkeys (which turned out to be possessed and creepy) play around in these giant mud flats (which included 'skiing' behind a boat on a huge wooden board). So that was another nice little getaway. And I have a few more trips in mind which should be pretty exciting! Hope everyone had a great Valentines weekend-- or Chinese New Year, a more popular holiday in these parts. And hope everyone is enjoying the cold weather!!

Bangkok Life

I have lived in Bangkok for about a month now. Which means I have been busy learning about and adjusting to life in the big city. In case you were wondering, Bangkok has a population of over 9 million, or 12 million including the metro area. Chiang Mai is less than 1 million. So it has been quite the transition. Bangkok is a bit strange because there is no true center of the city. Instead, it is very spread out with several distinct areas. My university, Thammasat (the second oldest in Thailand), is in the heart of the oldest part of the city. It is a mere 10 minutes walk from the Grand Palace and some of the most important temples in the city. There are around 30,000 students, although because I am in the Thai Studies program, my classes are only with other international students. We do have Thai professors, though, who are all extremely smart. I am taking four classes: Social and Economic Development in Thailand, Thai Politics, Thai Cuisine, and Thai Language. I must admit, it has been beyond painful to sit inside classrooms and listen to 3 hour lectures, but I am grateful to be learning even more about this country. The campus is right on the river, which means that in order to get to school everyday...I take a boat. It's really just a ferry that crosses directly to the other side, but it is always a fun part of the day, especially as it gets hotter and hotter outside. From the ferry, I live about a 15 minute walk away. I am in an apartment building with a ton of other international students which is great because all of my friends are here. The building is brand new and is definitely nicer than my place in Chiang Mai. It's simple, but it's big and bright and air-conditioned. The biggest bummer, in my opinion, is that not much is going on within walking distance of our building. Good thing I am becoming a pro at Bangkok public transportation.

I have almost, but not quite yet, taken all forms of transportation in Bangkok-- and there are many. Aside from the cross river ferries, which cost a whopping 3 baht (a dime), there are also boats with routes up and down the river. Those are really great, except when they are stuffed to the brim with tourists. You can also hire boats to take you down the many canals that meander through the city. On the roads, the city is filled with taxis in bright, goofy colors-- often pink. They may be expensive relative to other options here but by American standards, they are cheap. I rarely pay more than a couple of dollars. Cabs are abundant, convenient, and air-conditioned, with only one major downfall. Traffic. Traveling any significant distance during rush hour (which is more like 3 hours, twice daily) is basically torture, so I avoid that as much as possible. Tuk-tuks also function like taxis, although once you get over the novelty of them, you realize that they are loud, dirty, and have a knack for ripping off foreigners. I have been working on figuring out the buses, since I'm not sure which ones go where. Most are not air-conditioned, have wooden floors, and will pick people up without coming to a full stop. But I love them because they are cheap (20 cents) and convenient. Bangkok also has motorcycle taxis which I have yet to try. You can recognize them by the bright orange, numbered vests that the drivers wear. They are typically used for short trips or for navigating through thick traffic. And they are CRAZY. For motorcycles in general, it is not uncommon to find them driving on the wrong side of the road, or on the sidewalk, or between cars with only an inch of room to spare. And just because they have an innocent passenger on the back does not at all mean they will go easy. It truly is a test of courage. One excellent way to avoid traffic altogether is the Skytrain, or BTS. It's similar to Denver's lightrail or Chicago's El, and is very modern and nice. Plus, most trips are less than a dollar. The problem is, however, the lines are limited and there is no stop anywhere near my apartment or school. Bummer. The last component of public transit is the mysterious subway which supposedly exists but I have never even see and doesn't seem to go anywhere worthwhile. So as you can see, just getting around in this town often turns into quite the adventure.

Another characteristic trait about Bangkok is the food, or rather the incredible availability of food. You cannot walk two blocks without coming across an opportunity to buy food. Restaurants come in all shapes and sizes, but most commonly are small with a couple of tables and stools and serve only Thai food. But then, even more common are the street vendors. They are everywhere. Sometimes they form a sort of market, lining sidewalks with countless carts and leaving little room for all the people to squeeze by. Other times, there will simply be a random vendor or two occupying a random spot. One thing is for sure, it is impossible to go hungry. Especially considering the, again, absurdly low prices. They sell everything from fresh fruit to fruit shakes, from fried meats with sticky rice to every kind of meat on a stick, from nuts to roti, from noodles to rice dishes, from mystery no-crust white bread sandwiches to mystery gelatin sweets. And of course, there is fried anything-you-can-possibly-think-of including bananas, fish cakes, spring rolls, dough, squid, and plenty of other mystery treats. But what's so great is that, aside from a few outliers, streetfood is often the best and cheapest food you can find. Cheap, easy, authentic, and delicious-- does it get much better? And no, I have yet to get sick at all from the food.

Another interesting aspect of Bangkok is the current political situation. Apparently the next 60 days have the potential to bring about MAJOR change to Thailand. Then again, they could bring about nothing new. But it is quite tense around here none-the-less. There is a supreme court ruling due out on February 26th that will decide whether or not to confiscate some 2 billion US dollars of the former Prime Minister's, Thaksin's, assets. In the case of an unfavorable outcome, Thaksin's supporters are expected to stage one the largest protests ever (and that means BIG). There are a couple of other court rulings that carry alot of weight regarding current politics. Even more exciting, though, are some of the rumors floating around. Thailand is known for its coups, which seem to happen on a regular basis but are almost always peaceful and bloodless. The last successful coup was in 2006 and ousted the Prime Minister Thaksin. Well, there have been plenty of rumors lately about a coup against the current Prime Minister Abhisit. Apparently there was some top secret coup attempt just two weeks ago but it was unsuccessful and not publicized. This week, the head of the military is visiting the United States, leaving a different man in charge. A man who many believe would be the one to stage a coup if it were to happen. What makes this even more interesting is the status of the King, Rama IX. Thailand is a Constitutional Monarchy and the King remains a beloved and important part of Thai life. He is however, 83 years old and has been in the hospital for several months now. In the past, confirmation of a successful coup came from the King and whether or not the coup leaders were granted an audience with His Majesty. Currently, though, it does not seem as though King Rama IX is in a position to do this and no one is quite sure what that means. The exact state of the King is not known to the public. Furthermore, as a matter of culture, Thais do not generally think or talk about the future of the King, who has ruled for over 60 years. Essentially, they go about believing he will live forever. So no one is prepared for life without Rama IX. Replying to the question, "what do you think will happen to the Thai political situation if the King were to pass away?" a guest lecturer in my Thai politics class and former deputy Prime Minister said with a straight face, "All hell will break loose".

So it is an exciting time to be in Thailand, especially in Bangkok. And of course the city also offers lots to do. I've been trying to get out and explore when I'm not in school. Last Friday I spent the afternoon in China town, which isn't far from campus. We just walked around, among the stores selling mounds of plastic stuff and restaurants selling sharkfin soup. There is also a GIANT flower market on the edge of China town where you can find a dozen roses for a dollar. Seriously. I've visited some of the local temples which act like oases in a sea of otherwise ugly and poorly designed concrete monsters. I also went with some friends to spend a day at a private cooking school where we shopped at a local market and then learned how to make 5 traditional Thai dishes all from scratch. We made: Chicken galangal coconut soup, chicken with cashew nut stir-fry, spicy glass noodle salad, red curry with chicken, and fried fish cakes. It was all delicious (okay, except the fish cakes) and easy and quick to make. And the shopping opportunities are endless here. You can go to some of the most high-class malls with all of the biggest designer names, or you can go to the weekend market which is an crowded tangle of outdoor stalls selling everything you could possibly imagine and would take you about a month to look through everything. The same goes for the nightlife. You can go to expensive, upscale clubs with dress codes or you can find small local joints as well as everything in between.

So that's kindof what I've been up to in the city. There's alot to do, so hopefully I'll stay busy exploring it all. But I also appreciate all of the precious opportunities to get out of the pollution and traffic. Which I will update you on very soon...